For the first 22 years of my life I considered “home” to be in Indiana. Indiana was always safe, it was always comfortable, and I never thought there would be another place I would call home. Maastricht changed that for me. As a 22-year-old, newlywed, with zero stamps on a newly minted passport, being dropped in Europe and more or less told to “figure it out” was a daunting task. Fast forward nearly three years, here I am writing a makeshift travel blog to talk about the 30-plus different countries I have been to. Life is pretty mad isn’t it? Before we even boarded our flight to Dusseldorf, Katie and I were pretty sold that Maastricht was where we wanted to settle. Nearly twenty-four hours after landing, our sponsor picked us up from our Hansel and Gretel style guesthouse and took us on a tour of Maastricht. A few pints and an ice cream cone later we agreed, oh yeah this is the place. A month later, we were moving our life’s possessions, via moving elevator, into the third story of our 19th century apartment on the Vrijthof.
This is where we called home for 3 years. Built in the 17th century, and still standing strong
Yes, this is the view from our living room windows. Not a bad view for enjoying your morning cup of coffee.
I would be remiss to publish a blog about any European city, and not discuss the rich history that sits within its city walls. If history isn’t your thing, shame on you if it’s not, feel free to skip to the next paragraph. Maastricht is the capital of the southernmost region of the Netherlands, Limburg. If you drive 10 minutes to the east, you’re in Germany, and if you drive 5 minutes to the west, you’re in Belgium. While there is some competition between Nijmegen and Maastricht as to who is older, I choose to believe that Maastricht is the winner of this “dispute.” Paleolithic remains dating back to between 8,000 and 25,000 years ago have been discovered, and it is thought that Maastricht served as a Celtic settlement during around 500 BC. Romans are thought to have arrived sometime in 1st century AD and built a bridge that linked together the two shores that run along the Meuse River. This bridge, now named Sint Servaasbrug, collapsed in 1275 and was promptly rebuilt into the bridge that I still walk our dog Ruthie across almost daily. This was an important area for the Romans, as it connected the coast to Cologne. In addition to the bridge, Romans also constructed the Basilica of Saint Servatius that still towers over the Vrijthof Square today. If you couldn’t tell yet, Saint Servatius is a very important fella in Maastricht’s history. The provosts within this church held highly regarded positions in the Holy Roman Empire, which allowed the city to prosper. Maastricht was handsomely wealthy and was considered a center for the manufacturing and trading of wool and leather through around 1500. Through the Middle Ages to the 19th century, Maastricht changed hands between Romans, Vikings, Carolingians, and French. Thankfully the importance of Maastricht led to the construction of the city walls, that also still stand to this day. In World War I the Netherlands was a neutral party, and Maastricht was largely unaffected. The same cannot be said for World War II. The Battle of Maastricht took place in May of 1940 and led to the German occupation of Maastricht until American liberation in September 1944. Liberation Day is still celebrated every 5 years in Maastricht, and we were lucky enough to be here for the celebration in 2019. The celebration is quite a sight and being present as an American was a very neat experience. After WWII, Maastricht found its footing again. Maastricht University was founded in 1976, and most notably, the Maastricht treaty was signed in Maastricht in 1991. This treaty led to the creation of the European Union and the Euro, so you could say it was a supremely big deal. As you can see, there is a breadth of history in this little, medieval city.
The aforementioned Saint Servaas Bridge on a beautiful day in Maastricht. 740 years old and fully operational.
Now that you know a little bit more about the history of Maastricht, it’s time to answer the question of what to do once you get there. Traveling throughout Europe, I have found that one of the best ways to get acquainted with a new city is through a free walking tour. If you are in Maastricht on the weekend, City Sights Maastricht offers a very good walking tour on Saturday (noon and 2:30) and Sunday (only noon) that I highly recommend. You have to pre-book on their website, but it is a free walking tour that gives you the highlights of the city, as well as useful historic information about the city. If walking tours aren’t your thing, then wandering around the city and seeing the sights yourself is more than acceptable. A great place to start would be the Vrijthof or known to us as our front yard. This is the main square, and houses two stunning churches that will surely give you THEE picture for your Instagram story or post. Right near the Vrijthof is the Boekhandel Dominicanen, a modern bookstore that is housed within a 13th century gothic church. It is absolutely as cool, and as beautiful as it sounds. After marveling the immense beauty of the first two places, the next best place to go would be to visit the Derlon Hotel on the Onze Lieve Vrouweplein to see the Roman ruins that the hotel was built on. The ruins are free to see and plenty of people go to see them every day, so you don’t need to feel awkward walking in randomly. After the ruins, I would highly recommend taking a nice stroll to Mount St. Pieter. The term “mount” is being used very generously here, but it still provides a very nice view over Maastricht. While up in the St. Pieter area, I would suggest grabbing a drink and snack at Chalet Bergrust, and taking the Maastricht Underground tour, in conjunction with the Fort St. Pieter guided tour. The route to St. Pieter should take you through the Stadspark, or city park, but if your Google Maps doesn’t take you through it on the way, I highly suggest taking a nice relaxing stroll and/or sit in the park. Once you stroll through the park, you can check out the two famous bridges in Maastricht and take more Instagram worthy pictures. Those are the main activities in Maastricht, and if you space them out with plenty of time for beers, waffles, frites, and other treats, then you can have a deliciously delightful weekend in the city.
This gives you an idea of the scale of the Andre Rieu concert. Mind you, this is happening directly in our front yard for an entire month!
The final question to answer is when should you go to Maastricht? There are so many things that go on through the year in this city, there really never is a bad time to come visit. The tail end of winter, and first part of spring brings two important events to Maastricht. The first event is Carnaval. Similar to Mardi Gras in New Orleans, Carnaval in Maastricht takes place right before Ash Wednesday, and it is an absolute banger of a party. I have never been to Mardi Gras so I can’t accurately compare the two, but I am willing to bet that Carnaval isn’t too far behind Mardi Gras in absurdity. Dress up in costume, drink way too much beer, and dispel bodily fluids into the street, and you have adequately accomplished the Carnaval in Maastricht. The other large-scale spring event is TEFAF, or The European Fine Art Fair. The event is as highbrow as it sounds, and Maastricht puts on a nice show for it. If you’re into art, this is a pretty premier event. Tickets are a little on the expensive side, and art isn’t really my thing, so we never went together. However, Katie did attend once and reported back that it was pretty cool. In the summer, you can expect a pretty high amount of heat, with minimal air conditioning available to give you respite from the depths of hell. Our apartment has been known to reach triple digits, and I’ll tell you now that there aren’t enough fans in the world to combat that heat. Beyond the heat you can expect to receive a visit from Maastricht native and world-renowned violinist Andre Rieu and his Johann Strauss Orchestra. The concert takes place on the Vrijthof and being able to watch the production from absolute start to finish from our front windows has been an absolute privilege over the last 3 years. You can get an idea for the importance and scale of the concert in this trailer for the 2019 concert, there is also the full 2018 version of the concert here, and if you have 2.5 hours to burn I cannot recommend it enough. This insane production usually runs from the first Wednesday of July, through the third Sunday in July. Maastricht is absolutely beautiful in the summer and getting a drink on the river on a sunny day is truly unbeatable. The fall is a pretty quiet time in Maastricht, but it’s an absolutely stunning time. The leaves are changing, the weather is finally beginning to cool off, and everyone is in happy spirits. Fall is my favorite season, so I am biased here, but this is my favorite time in Maastricht. The winter brings more welcomed chaos to Maastricht, and more exactly, to the Vrijthof. Did I mention that’s our front yard yet? Magisch Maastricht op het Vrijthof, a full-fledged European Christmas market, usually occurs from around Thanksgiving until right before New Year’s Eve. There is a massive ferris wheel, (look close enough and you can see Katie and I watching Netflix in our pjs), an ice-skating rink, way too much food, and most importantly a few Oliebollen stands to get your fried dough ball fix.
Magisch Maastricht! This is Maastricht's magical Christmas market, also in our front yard for over a month.
We have come to my specialty within travel. If you were to ask my wife what my greatest skill that I bring to the table when it comes to travel, I would undoubtedly bet that she would say it would be my innate ability to find the best places to eat in a city. Not only can I find you the best places to eat, they often are the cheapest as well. Maastricht has multiple Michelin starred restaurants within its gorgeous city walls. As of 2020, there was one, 2-star Michelin restaurant, and eight, 1-star Michelin restaurants. Not bad for a quaint city you probably have never heard of.
While Michelin starred restaurants are quite delicious, at least so I hear; they’re not quite my kind of restaurants, the best part of exploring a new city is finding the places the locals and the students eat. Across almost every city in America, you will find your Chili’s, Applebee’s, Chipotle, etc., but in most cities in Europe, chain restaurants are actually quite rare. Most of the restaurants you find on city squares and through narrow alleyways, outside of the KFC, McDonalds, and Burger King that most European cities tend to have, are local and family owned. With that being said, the following establishments come highly recommended, and are places that are frequented by yours truly.
Considering the fact that I lived in Maastricht, I never had to seek out any accommodation. I will offer a few places that come highly recommended, but mostly I will offer advice on what part of the city to stay in. With Maastricht being such a tiny city, you really can’t go wrong as far as where to stay. Having lived right on the Vrijthof for 3 years, I can tell you for a fact that that is where the action is. If something is going on in the city it is either happening on the Vrijthof, or on the Markt square. The Wyck side is a little more modern and has a lot of shops and boutiques to fill an entire day’s worth of shopping. Both sides of the river are beautiful, so it would be best to choose which side suits you best on your own.
The famous Vrijthof, aka our front yard. This is the heart of the city.
This post is much longer than the other blog posts will probably be, but that is because Maastricht is home. For the rest of my life I will have a tie to this tiny, medieval city. Memories have been made here, friends have been made here, and lots growing up has been done here. I truly think Maastricht is one of the most underrated cities in Europe, and we couldn’t have asked for a better place to have been situated for the last 3 years. Whether you’re passing through from Amsterdam on the way to Brussels, Bruges, or Paris, do yourself a favor and treat yourself to at least one day in Maastricht.
- Jake (April 19, 2020)
Soundtrack for this blog: More Harry Styles than I care to admit, but mostly "Watermelon Sugar," various songs by Morgan Wallen, and the “New Music Nashville” playlist on Spotify